Kawah Ijen: Beauty in a Hellish Place

Kawah Ijen: Beauty in a Hellish Place

      Antok has a hernia. He has dropped his basket of sulphur and sits against a rock on the mountain path. “Obat, obat – medicine, medicine,” he calls as he clutches his stomach in obvious agony. We have nothing but cameras, passports and...
Remembering the Fallen at Ypres

Remembering the Fallen at Ypres

    On Passing the new Menin Gate   Who will remember, passing through this Gate,   The unheroic Dead who fed the guns?   Who shall absolve the foulness of their fate, –   Those doomed, conscripted, unvictorious ones?   Crudely renewed, the Salient...
A Spice Islands Odyssey

A Spice Islands Odyssey

    Ternate and Tidore – the fabled Spice Islands of the Indies, two names whose very mention once enthralled the royal courts of Europe with dreams of exotic lands and unimaginable wealth. The only source of cloves and nutmeg, man’s desire for control...

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